In this age of loud, expressive wines, I would like to draw some attention to a few of the quieter ones.
At this time of the year, many of the 2004 sauvignon blancs are being released, and since sauvignon blanc has in recent times been turned into one of the "loudmouths", let's look at some more delicate examples.
With WineX happening at the Cape Town International Convention Centre this afternoon, it's a good opportunity to track a few of them down.
This is my argument: while the bolshy blasts of gooseberry, grass and peppers that pump out of the sauvignons are the reasons they charm upon first impression, these pungent wafts also often come with wines that are hyper-concentrated and even searingly acidic.
It seems that this works contrary to the spirit of this fresh white. What one wants is a flavourful wine, certainly with a good measure of perkiness, but not necessarily at Wonderbra levels.
Fortunately, there are sauvignons with pure fruit, but also balance and elegance. The better examples have an attractive sweet/sour element (Berrio 2004) or a mineral intensity that offsets the fresh green flavours (Springfield's sauvignons).
Another established name that makes a very drinkable, supple wine is Waterford. They allow long lees (spent yeast cell) contact; this adds a richness to the wine and softens it.
A less well-known sauvignon that I have recently enjoyed is Ingwe's 2003. It has good flavour and a measure of moderation; their reds are well worth trying because they are made in a very restrained style as befits the fact that the owner is from Bordeaux.
Another European who is putting great energy (and a few large cheques) into the Cape wine scene is the owner of Capaia in the far Durbanville hills.
The flying winemaker here is Tibor Gal. The cellar is now producing the first vintages of what looks to become a very serious player in the Cape red blend scene. On the side, under a label called Blue Grove Hill, they make a sauvignon blanc that is light, refreshing and very well-priced.
Due to sauvignon's popularity and arguably rather greedy producers, this wine is becoming very expensive. If more people wanted gentler sauvignon, maybe the prices will also become gentler...